Using The IR Filter
Having manual control on your camera is really a must to make this work right. Because you have no visible light to work with, you'll be needing to take long exposure shots for this to work, and you'll need control for this to work. In addition, most autofocus mechanisms will be confused by the existence of the IR filter and try and focus on the filter itself, which is obviously not want you want it to do. Also, if you don't want to do all your white balance adjustment during post processing work to get rid of that red haze, setting a custom white balance will save you some time. Manual is your friend for IR photography!
The process will also be eased along by the existence of some sort of stabilizing device, typically a tripod, for those long exposures.
Keep in mind that IR photography is largely restricted during the day, just because of the warmer temperatures and thus more IR radiation available.
Infrared sensitivity varies by camera, so it may be that this won't work as well for your camera as for your best friend's. Also, take note that you'll be shooting in the near infrared, which is what most IR photography consists of, as opposed to far infrared. As the names suggest, near infrared is closer to the visible spectrum than far infrared.
Other than that, use your creativity, and explore this strange new world! IR photographers love to take pictures of snowy-white vegetation and the like, but there's a lot more to IR photography than just that: think of all the odd heat signatures in an urban environment, or of animals and people, or...
Check out this article for more tips on how to do infrared photography.