Can You Conserve Home Heat & Recycle Dryer Heat Using An Air-to-Air Heat Exchanger?

Written by:  • Edited by: Laurie Patsalides
Updated Mar 2, 2010
• Related Guides: Heat | Heat Exchanger
2

Why isn't every clothes dryer hooked up to an Air-to-Air Heat Exchanger? This would conserve a lot of the clothes drying heat that is ordinarily lost to the great outdoors. Why is this not available?

Is There Fool Proof Heat Recovery from a Clothes Dryer using an Air-to-Air Heat Exchanger?
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For those who are very serious about turning their ordinary clothes dryer into a 'green clothes dryer' this idea is for a clothes dryer vent/heat reclaimer that will work in any house, new or old. If someone were to invent such a product, it would actually involve taking an off the shelf industrial strength Air-to-Air Heat exchanger and installing it as an add-on to your dryer exhaust vent. When your dryer is operating, an Air-to-Air Heat Exchanger would return most of the heat from your dryer back indoors yet still sending the moisture outdoors.

If you were to install a product that could operate in this way on the exhaust of your electric dryer you will be saving more than half of the dryer heat that you would otherwise give up to the great out doors. At the same time, you will be completely preventing the negative pressure that a dryer usually causes as air tries to make its way back into the home that the clothes dryer has blown the air out of (at a less visible, but very significant energy saving).

You would have to be a do-it-yourselfer (or a local handyman with some low voltage controls experience) to install a product such as this that could actually work with your clothes dryer exhaust. With the proper know-how, it would be possible to accomplish this in the course of an afternoon.

An air-air heat exchange mechanism works by blowing the exhaust air through one side of a heat exchanger (similar in principal to the heat exchanger in a furnace for instance) while at the same time drawing fresh air from out of doors into the house through the other side of the heat exchanger. This means the moist exhaust air gives up its heat through the heat exchanger surfaces to the cold dry incoming air which is replacing it. As a result the exhaust air leaves in a cooled state, and the replacement air enters in a warmed state. Consequently, a lot less heat from the dryer is lost to the out of doors while all dryer induced droughts in the house are eliminated.

An Air-to-Air Heat Exchanger would need to come with a filter which you would want to check frequently, and change often. This is very important. If an Air-to-Air heat exchanger became plugged with lint and air flow was reduced as a result the drier would pose a serious fire hazard. Ideally this would never happen with proper maintenance but safety switches would need to be added just in case lent built up anywhere in the air flow pathway. You would need to check the filter of the air-to-air heat exchanger each time you used the drier, just as you do with the drier lint collector already. But, as a safeguard, you would want to a sail switch to the exhaust air duct that leads from an air-to-air heat exchanger to the outdoors. Sail switches are commonly used in HVAC applications and serve as safety switches. They cut the power off from the whole system (the dryer in this case) if the air flow becomes to low for proper operation of the system under consideration.

An Air-to-Air heat exchanger would need to have a removable heat exchanger module. This is commonly how these mechanisms are made since in any heat exchange application, you would from time to time, need to remove the heat exchanger and wash it out.

This home-made green clothes dryer option is not for the faint of heart. For example, the Suncourt HE 150 Air-to-Air Heat exchanger costs $550.00. At first I recommended this particular model as the correct Air-to-Air heat exchanger for the job. However, the Suncourt is not designed to work with temperatures as high as those that are generated by a clothes dryer. A more industrial version would be needed, one that could handle the type of air temperatures that a dryer can put out.

If you managed to find an appropriate air-to-air heat exchanger for $500.00 , one which was designed for this usage, it would pay for itself very nicely overtime, though, at today's prices it would take a few years. In the mean time, however, you would have given the environment a big lift, not to mention that you would also have made your house that much more comfortable during the winter months. An industrial version of an Air-to-Air heat exchanger is likely to be much more expensive than just $500.00 dollars.

Probably, right now, there is an inventor out there, somewhere, busy putting a dryer together that already has an Air-to-Air heat exchanger built right into the machine.


Comments

Showing all 9 comments
 
rosita1234 Jan 31, 2012 2:57 AM
RE: Can You Conserve Home Heat & Recycle Dryer Heat Using An Air-to-Air Heat Exchanger?
Interior design magazines is really a great thing to use as a inspirational tool in designing your home and the best thing is you can get this for free.
David McHugh Sep 22, 2011 10:50 AM
Dryer venting
I read with interest your comments on venting from dryers. I particular, the gentleman involved in building the low-energy house. My company provides Heat recovery ventilation systems to low energy houses every day and in a few of them, we have experimented with taking warm moist air from laundry rooms. Two problems we have come up with is (a) a lot of debris comes off the clothes and it needs extra filtering, (b) a standard extract normally fitted in these kind of rooms is in no way adequate to keep condendation at bay if the exhaust from the dryer is just fed into the room.
What we have done is, come up with a damper arrangement on the extract of the HRV, suchthat, when the dryer is switched on, the extract lines from bathrooms and kitchens close and all the power of the HRV unit is dedicated to the laundry room. This will have two effects,(1) It will remove a relatively large amount of hot air from the laundry room and return over 90% of this heat to the living areas in your house,(2)in very cold weather when the air outside is dry the moisture in this air will condense in the heat exchanger and prevent it from freezing up due to the latent heat released within the heat exchanger.
Chris Dec 14, 2010 6:28 PM
better idea
Use the exhaust heat to pre-heat the dryer's intake air. This would require a little duct work on the dryer itself. Here in Dallas, you certainly wouldn't want the heated air returning to the house in the summer, and having the dryer use conditioned air is a waste.
Bob Fairchild Jun 28, 2010 8:44 PM
Indoor dryer vent
From Amazon and probably your local Ace hardware:
http://www.amazon.com/Ace-Dryer-Lint-Trap-ACELTF/dp/B000RLE5X0
Joe Nov 29, 2009 2:20 PM
Separate out the functions
There is a solution, but it involves separating out each function so that they don't create hazards. First, filter the air. This can be done via a standard lint filter, but i think a design for a centrifugal catcher is probably more efficient in the long-run. But, it would require periodic cleaning and should probably incorporate a kill-switch when overloaded. This should also include a drain to catch condensation. The outer circumference should be inset with a screen so the lint could dry from both sides to minimize mold growth.

Next, filter it again. It's better to have a replaceable filter than a clogged heat exchanger system downstream. But, with the centrifugal filter before it, the filter should last many times longer.

The heat exchanger should consider the overall energy expended to run it. I've not done the math, but I do know that the outbound pressure should be sufficient to run an inbound pressure-generating fan more efficiently than attaching a motor to run the fan. It may not capture as much heat, but the system-level efficiency would be higher. Of course, you could run the fan from solar and pull that carbon-cost out off the equation.

The challenge of running a fan from the outbound pressure is transmitting the torque from the outbound system to the fan on the inbound system. That's where the design-engineering details come into play. Shaft friction, fan design, etc, are all critical to making that system work efficiently to justify replacing an electric fan. That's also where the patents will be created in this idea.

All of the heat exchanging material should be metal, and either aluminum or galvanized steel. It's all about surface area, so the longer the better if you are using tubes. And, tubes make the most sense from an edge-seal perspective. If space is not an issue, then I'm sure it can be assembled on the floor of Home Depot. Making it compact will probably require some fabrication.
Ken Huck Nov 16, 2009 1:11 PM
Dryer efficiency & recovering dryer heat
Hi 00orange00,

That is a great question. I just started thinking about that yesterday while I was building a superinsulated home designed to reduce its energy use by 70%.

For more info see news section at http://www.susten.com

The energy efficient home owner above is emphasizing line drying but the best I can do (Sorry Greggr) is run my dryer at off peak times. There are a number of reasons why we keep our dryer outside. A big one being that clothes are laden with poly vinyl chloride PVC / Plastisol inks particles of which will produce very dangerous dixions and furans if they get to hot.

Based on a rudimentary analysis I agree with Robert F. I believe that purpose built heat exchanger that condensed out the moisture when combined with high spin speed washer could reduce dryer energy consumption by at least 50%.

I have heard that heat pump dryers are availale in europe and they would certainly pump the heat out of the exhaust stream.

I share the concerns of the Suncourt people and would recommend caution if using thermoformed plastic heat exchangers.

Ken Huck
"Make the Earth Sing" with
Ecosavvy Energy
828-350-7529


Steve Nov 10, 2009 2:56 AM
Dehumidifier
Why can't you just run a dehumidifier in the same space (heated basement for eg) you are venting the moist, hot air?
Robert Fairchild Oct 8, 2009 6:03 PM
clothes dryer heat exchange
Build your own simple counterflow heat exhanger: Use rigid 4" aluminum duct for the dryer vent. Surround with 6" aluminum duct or galvanized stovepipe with 1" spacers (1" bolts through the outer pipe for example) and several inches short at the dryer end. Cut a 4" hole through a 6" elbow and attach near outside exhaust end. [this is the tricky part, cutting a hole for a cylinder (duct) in a curving cylinder (elbow)] Attach 6" fan to the open end of the elbow. Blow air down the 6" pipe from the exhaust end toward the dryer when the dryer is running. You'll at least reclaim some of the heat. You might need to make provision to collect any resulting condensation. (As evaporation is a cooling process, condensation is a heating process, the more condensation the more heat you've recaptured).


fan
heat / ---\/--- /
[ /\ ---------------------------/ \/ /
[-----------------------------------------------------------
dryer ->dryer vent -> exit-->
[-----------------------------------------------------------
[ \/ -------------------------------------/
heat

Bob
Greggr Jun 23, 2009 2:40 PM
Clothes Dryer Heat Exchange
Simple physics makes recovering heat from a dryer vent more complicated that it seems at first. Dryer exhaust contains moisture and lint as well as heat. If heat is removed from the exhaust the ability of the air to retain the same amount of moisture is also lost. Think of sweat on the inside of the dryer vent or inside the heat exchanger just as the outside of a cold pipe sweats on a hot humid day. Now add lint, washing detergents, and residual dirt. This is a potential fire hazard with a hot dryer exhaust. There were heat recovery devices sold in the 1970's for dryers and most of them were removed from the market for this reason.

For the same reason venting a dryer into a home isn't a good idea. Imagine the clothes moisture now condensing inside the walls and ceiling of a home viola! MOLD.

A better solution might be to experiment with using a larger air volume and less heat to dry clothes but this will create negative pressure when it is exhausted outside.

Then there's the Amish solution. Hang your clothes outside to dry year 'round and be patient. As long as there's no rain or snow they will slowly freeze dry even in the dead of winter. Just requires some vigilance and patience.
 
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