A multicolored silk square is at the center of a controversy which nearly toppled the Turkish Government, and modern Turkish women are at the hub. The question of whether or not the ban on head scarves in universities and official buildings is justified has occupied the highest Turkish court.The government survived by one vote. However, political considerations are not the subject of this article.
A recent survey has shown that 62% of Turkish women, regardless of age and place of residence, favor the hijab. They feel comfortable with covering their hair and expressing their religious feelings. Hence, the headscarf is an important item of every day dress and fashion. Turkish women love colors, gold, sequins and embroidery. Head scarves are either made of silk or the less slippery cotton, but very rarely are they unadorned or plain.
There are basically two ways of tying the headscarf. One is turban style, with the hair bunched up on top of the head, the scarf then pulled down over the forehead, the ends crossed at the back of the neck, then brought forward and tied on top of the head in a bow or a knot. The other is with the scarf folded forward over the ears and tied or rather tightly pinned at the neck, the loose ends covering the neck as well as the hair. That's the more traditional way.
Often the basic color of the headscarf is chosen to match the rest of the outfit and the scarf is covered in lace, embroidered with gold or adorned with gold coins.
As seen in the picture above, older women (and very old men as well) choose to wear the traditional baggy trousers. Somewhat uncharitably, the garment is also known as "shit catchers", an expression originally coined in Australia to describe knickerbockers. The unkind name doesn't do the practicality of these trousers justice; they are especially popular in hot countries. More modern versions are calf length, whereas the traditional cut is ankle length, where the many folds of fabric are gathered either by buttons or elastic. The same method of fastening is used at the waist. The crotch of the trousers is very loose and comes down to the knees. The cut prevents the chafing of sweaty skin, rashes and other irritations and is therefore well adapted to the heat.
Modern Turkish women prefer swishy long skirts to shit catchers. The skirts are combined with tight fitting tops, T-shirts or long sleeved blouses, often color coordinated and adorned with sparkly appliqué, crystals and sequins. Sparkle is not restricted to evening wear but can be seen all day long.
On colder days the long overcoat known as pardosu is worn on top. A favorite with younger women is a pardosu made from denim.
Traditional Turkish headdresses, particularly from the region of Cappadocia, are very colorful and elaborate. Small beads are hand embroidered onto caps to cover the hair and head, but these head dresses are worn at celebrations and ceremonies and not meant for every day wear.
Turkish fashion designers are starting to make an impact on the international fashion stage; the best known among them being Hussein Chalayan, a Cyprus born Turk.